Back on Blackberry.

Got my Blackberry back. So to those need to ask or whatever, can add me up by this pin:

21503695

And since I am quite active on Twitter, here's my Twitter:

Amar_Gencos

Info: 4A-GE Cam Cover.

And for an observation:

What top is this? At first sight, it is a Blacktop. Upon observing it, it is the Silvertop painted in black color. There's a few differences that can be spotted too.

*The cam cover.
*MAF sensor.
*The intake manifold.
*The top cover/wording position.

Credits to Zamil for both pictures.

Maintaining a Turbo Engine.

Geez, I really should be posting up some of Rolla's progress during my holiday week. Okay let me sum up the story as I am quite busy now with assignment. Yeah last minute work ROCK!

First of all, I stripped the floor and painted it with anti rust paint. Surprisingly the floor is in good condition except a lil rust here and there at the driver side. Got a minor hole from the rust but I decided not to weld it. Most of the shop were closed during Chinese New Year.

The other issue was the engine problem. I'll go through with it in the next next post. Anyway, just wanna share some common tips on maintaining an engine, especially a turbo charged engine. Was doing some Google job since I am not happy with the current engine state.

Probably need a top overhaul to stop the leak and to find the real problem, a new blow off valve, and finally finding the source of the chemical smell that enters the cabin. Soon soon. And since I made a promise to myself that February is the fasting month for my wallet (Huahuahua), I probably will start to do the next project in March or sooner. And since my final final exam is coming soon, I guess I better start to focus on it first. Hahaha.

Rolla will be left at home after this, no more bringing it back to campus. I don't want Rolla to be dirtied over time when at campus, exposed to the sun light and moist, and the probability that Rolla will be scratched by some muthafucka is higher when the car is at campus, and what not. Plus the not-so-healthy engine is another excuse for not bringing it back.

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Engine Maintenance Tips.

Nothing lasts forever; any car eventually will start having problems. However, while some cars may provide you with few hundred thousands miles of trouble-free driving, others start having problems from the beginning. Why there is such a huge difference?

Sometimes cars start having problems after accidents. Sometimes it may be a factory defect or design flaw. Heavy conditions like, for example, driving only short trips without letting the engine to warm up fully also make the engine life shorter.

Corrosion is another factor - for example, park the car for a few months in place with high humidity and later it will probably have more problems than the vehicle driven all this time on daily basis.

Yet, lack of maintenance is one of the most often reason for a car to break down.

Poorly-maintained engine

Well-maintained engine

Here is a visual example:
Compare these two images: the engine on a top photo hasn't been maintained well. Looks like it the engine oil hasn't been changed for long time. This engine has relatively low mileage and already needs serious and costly repair. The engine on the lower photo has been maintained well. After 175,000 miles (281,000 km) it's still in a very good condition, and needs no repair at all. Can you see the difference?

So, what's most important to keep your engine in a good shape?

- I guess, I won't say something new stating that regular oil changes is most important factor to keep the engine running. If you do it more often than suggested by manufacturer's schedule, that's even better.
- Avoid overheating the engine
- Changing spark plugs, air filter, timing belt and other items from maintenance schedule may save you from costly repairs.
- Fix any small problem right away before it causes a serious damage.

Engine oil change

Oil sludge

Why regular oil changes are so important? What will happen if I miss my oil change? Engine oil has limited life - after a certain point it starts losing lubricating qualities and carbonizes. Once it happens, the engine gets contaminated with carbon deposits or sludge (see the photo) that significantly shorten engine's life. When you change oil at or before manufacturer suggested interval, you change the oil before this "carbonizing" point, engine remains clean and once refilled with new oil ready to work hard again. If the engine oil has not been changed for long, carbon deposits start clogging the oil pick-up screen decreasing oil supply and increasing friction. Through the engine ventilation system the same carbon deposits build up inside the throttle body and EGR system causing rough idle and possible check engine light. Compression decreases and engine start wearing much faster.
If you don't remember when you changed the oil in your car last time - just check the oil on the dipstick. And every time you change the oil, the oil filter should be replaced as well.

Checking the engine oil

Check the engine oil regularly, I'd recommend at least once a month or even more often if the car has high mileage. Driving with extremely low oil level (less than min.) or with low oil pressure warning lamp on may cause serious engine damage If you note, that oil pressure gauge indicates extremely low oil pressure - have your engine inspected as soon as possible. - While checking the oil level, look at its condition. Check the image at the left. If the oil is black like on the right image, I'd suggest to change it. - Always use only appropriate engine oil type (usually you can find it on oil cap or in the owners manual). - Check your parking space for leaks. If you find any, fix it before it results in more serious vehicle problem

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Synthetic oil vs. conventional mineral oil

The advantage of synthetic oil is that it can withstand higher temperature and can work longer without losing its lubricating qualities. It doesn't get thicker at below-zero temperatures providing good engine lubrication at a cold start. However, since it's more "thinner" a high-mileage engine filled with synthetic oil will more likely to develop leaks and you will more likely to hear lifters tapping noise at a start. Therefore, If you have low mileage or turbo engine and driving under heavy conditions such as high temperature, excessive load, long intervals without an oil change, etc., or simply want to provide extra protection for your engine, synthetic oil may be a good solution. But I don't think it's worth to use synthetic oil in high-mileage engines - thicker mineral oil will provide better protection as long as you change it regularly.

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Engine cooling system

Engine overheating causes serious engine damage. In order to avoid the engine overheating: Check the coolant level periodically. It should be at least at the "min" mark in the coolant reservoir. If it's lower, add the coolant bringing the level to the "max" mark. Caution: Never open the radiator or the coolant overflow reservoir when engine is hot! If you discover a coolant leak, have it fixed as soon as possible - it may cause engine overheating. If you note that the engine temperature starts rising higher than normal, have your engine inspected before it will cause serious problems. Check the front of the radiator - sometimes it may be obstructed with leaves or dust. It's one of the possible reasons for the overheating. Look at the image on the left. This Buick' radiator is clogged. Try to avoid using front end covers - they cause restrictions to the air flow through the radiator

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Tune-up, timing belt, fuel injector flush There are certain vehicle components that need periodical replacement (check your owner's manual for details) such as, for example: Fuel filter - dirty fuel filter may cause engine stalling and loss of engine power. Air filter - dirty air filter causes loss of engine power, increased fuel consumption, air flow sensor failure, etc. Engine coolant - old engine coolant loses its anti-corrosive and other characteristics and may cause water pump to fail. Spark plugs - simply spark plugs replacement can significantly improve the engine performance. Timing belt - timing belt failure may cause serious engine damage, especially if it's diesel engine. Having a problem with fuel consumption or rough idle on a high mileage car? - Try fuel injectors service. You will note the difference right away. Battery CAUTION: The battery filled with harmful acid solution and can produce explosive gases. Handling a battery be careful and always use protective glasses and gloves. Don't use open fire, smoke, or create a spark near battery. Most of batteries nowadays are maintenance free. All you check is battery terminals that shouldn't be loose or corroded. Corroded battery terminals will cause all kind of problem: blinking instrument lights, low charge, no-start, dim headlights, check engine and ABS malfunction light etc. Also, if you see any acid leaks, cracks or any other damage - replace the battery. Acid leaking from the battery destroys everything underneath. For example on VW Golf it will be the fan control module located right under the battery.

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Fix any small problems

If there is any problems with your engine, such as irregular noise or smell, or performance problems, leaks or smoke, or "check engine" light is on, etc., have your car inspected with a mechanic. It's always better to fix any small problem right away before they can cause engine damage. Be aware, some mechanics will try to scare you because they always want to sell you more job than your car really needs, so always ask to explain everything, to show you what exactly is wrong and why.

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For vehicles with turbocharger

Oil is the life blood of your turbo. It helps cool and lubricate your turbo and its bearings. With out proper lubrication a turbo will overheat and seize.

With that in mind, here are some basic tips to maintaining a healthy turbo.

1.) Use only synthetic oil.

It is recommended to use only synthetic oil in a turbo application because synthetic oils are better at resisting thermal breakdown then non-synthetic oil, and we all know that turbos run at extremely high temperatures.

2.) Change your oil every 2,500-3,000 miles.

When run through an extremely hot turbo, oil breaks down and becomes dirty very fast. It is very important to change your oil every 3,000 miles.

3.) Check you oil level often.

You want to check your oil at least once a week. Due to various, strenuous conditions of positive manifold pressure and excess heat caused by a turbo you want to check your oil levels at least once a week.

3.) Let your oil cool down before you shut off your car.

It is very important to let your car idle for an extended period of time after driving. (The amount of time really depends on how hard you drive the car). This allows the turbo and ultimately your oil to cool down which prevents coking of your turbo bearings and oil lines.

4.) Make sure you oil in the turbo before starting the car after an oil change.

It is important to make sure that the turbo bearings are lubricated before you start your car after an oil change, to do this, pull your ecu fuse and crank your car until your oil pressure light turns off. This will ensure the turbo has oil in it before you start the car.

Thanks to the writer for the great tips. The original article can be found here and here too.

Back to Basic.

And don't be surprised coz I am back to basic. Still maintaining the blue color, but less item on my page and much more lighter than before. Am thinking of switching to other platform. Wordpress maybe? Any suggestion? Or should I stick to Blogger?

Identifying Your Corolla.

Found it here. Which model is my KE70? Hahaha. God knows why Toyota created so many version of #E7# series. Enjoy finding your model.

AE86 Tuning Guide: Turbo 4A-G!

Original post from here. Just cut and paste. Thanks to the writer for a great write up!

So you like boost now? Got a taste for it with the 4A-GZE and now you want more? Well the next logical step is to bolt on a turbo!

INTERNAL FORTITUDE

When coupled with a turbo, the internal strength of a 4A-GZE bottom really comes into its own. Toyota really over-engineered the GZE bottom end, and only decided to run with a mild amount of boost with a super charger to play it safe. A turbo on the other hand crams a lot more boost into the combustion chamber thus making good use of Toyota forethought.

It has been widely speculated how much boost a GZE can cope with, from forums and internet chatter claiming anywhere from a lowly 8psi (a.k.a half a bar) all the way up to a engine busting 30psi (2 bar)!!

As mentioned last instalment of the AE86 Tuning Guide, a factory GZE has about 6-8psi of boost from the ‘charger. If you add a turbo you obviously going to be running a larger amount of boost. This is where you will need to restrain yourself and keep boost levels to a sane amount, everyone wants to immediately cram 30psi into the engine and enjoy the fun, without thinking of the consequences (a.k.a BANG!)

If you keep things below a maximum of 15psi your newly named 4A-GTE will enjoy a long and happy life with its standard rods and pistons.

Now not all rods and pistons are created equal. The Bigport, while still built like the proverbial brick out-house, was well and good but suffered from a selection of weak points. Toyota again went nuts in the over-engineering department and created the Smallport AE92 4A-GZE with nigh on indestructibility as their goal. The largest and strongest factory rods, forged pistons, larger wrist pins, and best oil squirters would only make it into this engineering marvel.

If your going to build your self a 4A-GTE, a Smallport GZE bottom end is probably the best place to start. While the Bigport has proven itself, the small port is just that much better again.

If you want to do it on the cheap you can do so by bolting a manifold, turbo, ECU, intercooler on and away you go. The problem with this is that quite often you don’t know the condition of the bottom end and without taking off the head you will never know. If you just slap it together on the cheap it may last 10 years on the limiter, or it may last 10 minutes on a test drive round the block… Wanna take that chance?

IF you answered no now is the time to check your bottom end. If you find some of your pistons are now merely ornamental (IE fubar’d, fried, cooked, etc) you can still get a new set of GZE pist0ns fresh from Toyota. But before you rush off to pay Toyota Genuine Parts more rediculous money, check out the competition. Nowadays there are many piston manufacturers out there who all offer a range of off the shelf, forged, low compression pistons for the 4AGE/ZE. Also on offer are a range of aftermarket rods as well, but since Toyota offer such excellent conrods to begin with, it’s rare to need to replace those with aftermarket items.

Best thing with low comp 4A-GE pistons is that if you use a 20v head, it still not a problem! 4AGE’s are a non-interference engine and you wont end up bending valves either way you go about it.

A good mate of mine has a 20v turbo in his AE86. It uses aftermarket 16v pistons on the Smallport GZE bottom end and revs to 9000rpm quite easily, and cops a 20psi gob full each time!

Another good mate has a smallport GZE turbo bottom end for his turbo FWD AE92, with aftermarket pistons and on a good night (IE very cool night) has seen 25psi and cops a thrashing day in, day out, on the track, winding road, trundling to work… You name it, he’s done it.

HEAD CASE

So now that you’ve got your bottom end sorted, which head do you use? This is where, unfortunately for 16 Valve users, the Smallport head is kind out of its depth. No amount of porting or polishing to the smallport head, will match the flow rate or intake design of the Bigport.

Armed with a 16v Bigport head, all that really needs to be done to aid in its flow of boost, is clean up the dags and casting marks, remove the pesky TVIS plate and bolt the intake manifold back on! Due the physically larger size of the intake ports on the Bigport head it allows more force fed air to be crammed in, where as the Smallport cannot keep up the volume.

Upgrading the throttle body on the 16v head is also going to be one of the best things to be done. You can use a 3S-GTE throttle body from a Turbo SW20 MR2 or if you’re crazy enough a Ford XF Falcon (a common Aussie model for you International readers) throttle body, which from memory is a huge 75mm!!

On the other hand, a 20 valve head with its individual throttle bodies are better again. They allow for a much more controlled air flow into the conbustion chamber and work extremely well under boosted applications (RB26DETT anyone?)

The biggest issue with individual throttle bodies or ITB’s is having a manifold to contain the air evenly across all 4 throttles. A large chamber of about 2 liters designed to sit over the top of the throttles is usually the best. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy, just sealed. So make sure its air tight and no spikes or ridges to impede air flow and you’re right to go.

Having said that, there is a something to be said about a well designed intake manifold. Have a look at the RB26 factory manifold, and also a nissan pulsar GTi-R SR20 intake manifold. Both of those taper at the ends to force air into the last throttle body, this is a good design philosophy to keep in mind if you decide to follow this path and make a custom manifold.

As you no doubt aware, the 20v head have individual throttle bodies from the factory plus of course the 5 valves per cylinder. This extra valve is probably the greatest thing for any turbo engine. It has been proven time and time again that the 20v head flows so much more than the 16v head ever will, both with forced induction and in N/A applications.

It is quite possible to add 20-50rwkw simlpy by using a 20v head instead of a 16v head. Although you fuel system would need to be up to it though… but ill get to that in a moment.

THE GREAT DEBATE: EXHAUST MANIFOLDS

Now this is the most debated subject in the history of forced induction ever. Exhaust manifolds..

A decent exhaust manifold can make or break an engine. This is where the power and boost is really made before being given to your beautifully manicured engine.

There is no hard and fast rule to the design of the exhaust manifolds, no need to be fully tuned length or any fancy unobtainium metals. A simple steampipe log style manifold quite often is all you will need. While a log style manifold may be scoffed at being crude and uncooth, quite often a simple smooth flow path of a log style manifold has provided more flow than a fancy name brand titanium manifold.

If space is at a premium you dont need a 100 bends in your exhaust manifold either to make it work instead of a log style manifold. a simple set up of bends that provide a smooth path to the turbo is all that is needed. doesnt need to be equal length or tuned length, it just needs to allow the exhaust gases to move freely and smoothly. Smooth bends less than 90° degrees are the best way keep up the flow.

Again when making a manifold, simple is best. You dont need any unobtainium or titanium or stainless steel to make a good manifold. Recently a good mate had a brand new stainless manifold on his RB26, purchased off a reputable company, with warranty. Quality was assured, but after 2 weeks it cracked and was leaking. Took it back they fixed it, under warranty, 1 week later it cracked again in another place, and soon after that the original crack opened up again. He had it fixed by somewhere else, they looked at it and said its going to crack again as it was no strong enough to handle the heat cycling.

Sure enough it cracked again. And was quickly replaced by an ugly looking, but damn near indestructable steampipe manifold. After many drift days it hasnt skipped a beat and cops a flogging.

CHOOSING WISELY

Turbo selection is one of the hardest parts of any turbo vehicle when upgrading.

Starting with the cheapest, there are a number of factory turbo’s which work better than the original manufacturer and vehicle ever intended to when you attach them to a 4A-GTE.

Most commonly used is the T25. Found on all CA18 and SR20 S13 Silvia’s and early skylines, they are a bush bearing, rebuild-able and most importantly DIRT CHEAP!! By using a common T3 flange they are guaranteed to be everywhere.

Second most common is the T28. Found on all RB25’s and S14 onwards Silvia’s. Again the early ones have a bush bearing and are little bit bigger than the T25 turbo. Being a bit bigger means that its slightly laggier, but it will be barely noticeable compared with the T25 when properly set up.

The S15 an RB25 neo engines came with a T28 also, but instead of that bush bearing they came equipped with a ball bearing. These are less common and much much better than the bush bearing T28. They have a faster spool rate, and again they are rebuild-able. However, they are not cheap, and are a little laggy when using anything less than 10psi. These turbos are fantastic with 20v engines, where they can utilise the higher airflow of the 20v head.

The T04L turbo found on WRX’s are in my humble opinion probably the second best factory turbo’s overall you could ever use on a turbo 4AG engine. Slight down side is it uses a VF type flange which is less common but no more difficult to find something to fit. Its a bush bearing again, and also cheap. I mean how many WRX’s are out there?!? They are roughly the same physical size as a T25, but use a slightly smaller front housing allowing it come on boost on real fast and real strong!

A very good friend of mine uses this turbo on his AE92 seca, and at 22psi at 2500rpm makes it very difficult to do hill starts without alerting the attention of any nearby policemen. His car with this turbo makes a healthly 165fwkw and boost starting at 1500rpm and holds it all the way to redline! Proven and well worth it!

Probably the best factory turbo in my opinion would be the VF34 from a subaru WRX STI. It is a bit bigger than the T04L, and like the T28 this turbo is ball bearing. Like its T04L brother it also uses a VF flange but it’s design and size make it damn near perfect for any 4A-GTE engine.

Using a slightly smaller rear compressor housing than the T28, a slightly larger front compressor wheel and a similar sized front housing than the T25, this turbo starts making boost around 2000rpm and full boost coming on before 3000rpm!! A 4A-GTE attached to this turbo with a decent set up will see around 180RWkW.

The downside? The VF34 is more expensive than the T04L or T25/T28, but is better all round and are rebuildable as well so make the decision wisely.

Using an aftermarket turbo or even a custom turbo may in fact be better than the factory options, but they do come at quite a price. They usually are not the cheapest option, not always the strongest option, and may require a lot more revs to hit full boost but they do how ever come with a warranty and are brand new so theres no slop or play in the prop shaft.

Using aftermarket, you certainly can use a larger turbo, much larger in fact. But the bigger the turbo you use the more you sacrifice in drivability. Those of you who read zoom, would know the editor ‘PJ’ recently swapped his old T88 for a more reasonable HKS 3037 turbo on his Silvia. I used to work with ‘PJ’ and was taken for a ride when he first got his silvia with T88. Off boost, it was a massive pig and seriously had nothing until 5000 rpm, when all hell would break loose and you would be sling shot in to the distance.

So the moral to that story is: a reasonably sized turbo will be infinately more driveable than the biggest baddest mutha you can find.

Coupling aftermarket camshafts with a turbo is one of the greatest things that can be done. The sort of cams you should look at are ones with the largest amount of lift, to allow the most and largest volume of air in to make more power: Lift of at least 8mm or bigger is recommended. A large duration cam shaft is not really necessary, so you should limit your turbo cams to about a maximum of 270° degrees.

COOL IT OR YOU’LL BLOW YOUR LOAD

Intercoolers and pressure release: Two small and often vital parts that you really need to get right. An intercooler doesn’t need to be anything fancy. Honestly a cheap chinese cooler will do the job fine on a 4A-GTE. Simply find a medium sized cooler normally used for a Silvia and go with that.

Similarly you could use a cooler from companies such as Hybrid PWR, TRUST, etc if you want something that will last a bit longer or is better overall quality. A simple tube and fin core is all that will ever be needed and remember you get what you pay for. That shiny new EBAY special may be good looking and keep things mega cool but the air may be slowed by being forced through terrible cast marks due to cheaply paid labour.

Water to air intercoolers is something that really hasnt been done in AE86 as of yet, due to the cheap and accessible nature of air to air cooler cores, but would quite possibly work extremely well.

There is a large amount of space in front of the radiator and behind the front bumper, and a box or barrel water to air cooler in that space with short pipes would certainly save space and look very neat and tidy.

Blow off valves (or BOV) are quite a necessity for almost all modern turbo engines. The blow off valve releases pressure in front of the turbo when the throttle is snapped shut. When this happens the boost pressure has no where else to go but backwards, up against the spinning turbine wheels which can shorten the lift of turbos and in extreme cases can almost stop the blades from turning.

Blow off valves and wastegates come in all shapes and sizes, from the lowly factory plastic ones, to the massive hardcore drag racing pro gates. When buying an aftermarket BOV usually you get a couple of extra springs to match the boost pressure you run. You might have to swap and change the springs to get the BOV in the right setting for you.

BOV’s can also have a number of different releases, such as plumb back, semi-plumb back and full vent. Plumb back means just that: plumb back. The vented pressure is plumbed back in to the intake pipe work before the throttle body. Semi-plumb back means that the half of the excess pressure is plumb back into the intake pipe and the rest is vented to atmosphere.

Full vent means nothing gets plumbed back. No half arsed-ness here as it dumps all the air straight to the atmosphere. Be aware this is very frowned upon by the constabulary.

A wastegate, alternatively, can be a lot quieter and you only have two 0ptions to decide on: internal or external. Wastegates contol the maximum boost pressure you will run, by opening at a certain PSI and venting excess exhaust gases or waste gases. Almost all modern turbo cars use a wastegate on the turbo and BOV for pressure controls on the engine.

Internal wastegates are plumbed back into the exhaust system via the dump pipe and exit out the muffler. External gates can be plumbed back into the dump pipe, or as all the cool kids do, dump it straight out!!

These kinds of external gates can be identified by the high pitched wail and spitting of flames from what is widely known as a ’screamer pipe’. So stand back cos nothing is cooler than a turbo car on full boost with flames shooting out the external gate deafening you as it screams past. Oh and by the way, external gates with ’screamer pipes’ are also highly illegal on the street, so best keep ‘em for the track.

BLOW IT OUT YOUR……

As has been covered before, a decent exhaust system is needed. 3 inches is the norm for almost any turbo car and for a 4A-GTE this is no different. The 3 inch designs are almost overkill but it will flow like nothing else, so go for it!

This is also where an under diff exhaust is pretty much a must, as going over you will run out of room between the diff and body of the car, especially on low cars where ground clearance is an issue. A smooth mandrel-bent, under-diff system with minimal bends is the most efficient style to go with.

BUST UP

Now you got all that sorted, this is the point you really will need to upgrade you diff and gear box. The usual upgrade is W55/57/58 gearbox and a Hilux or F-series diff. The T-50 gearbox and spindly T-series rear end will not cope with turbo power for long, but it all depends on how you drive it too. Just ask Sam….

The specifics of drive train upgrades will be covered in a future installment of ‘the guide’.

BRAINS OF THE OPERATION

A factory ‘GZE ECU can be tricked into running with a turbo provided you keep boost below 10psi. It will run like this for a while provided the rest of system, IE fuel and cooling, has been upgraded accordingly. Turbo engines really are where the multitude of aftermarket ECU options come to the fore. Haltech, Autronic, EMS, Adaptronic, MoTeC.. All these come with a multitude of features for the turbo engine (and are all designed in Australia – the world’s leaders in fuel management ECU’s!)

All have multiple maps tuning for street and track driving and they all provide models which can control boost and Anti-lag. You might be wondering why you need anti-lag? Well when at the track and you lift off the throttle or are staging at the tree on the strip, anti-lag comes in very handy as it will keep the turbo on boost almost the whole time, significantly reducing spool times! If you’ve ever seen WRC you’ll know what im talking about; that characteristic “bang! bang! bang!” from the exhaust pipe as the cars race past on over-run.

Closed loop idle, closed loop 02 sensor, VVTI control, rev limiting. All these features are play a big part in the tuning of a turbo car. Most ECU’s are also compatible with coil on plug ignition systems and aftermarket ignition and distributor less ignition systems such as MSD and can also have launch control for you drag racers out there. Having seen this in action it works brilliantly when trying to launch hard. Can also scare the bejesus out of pedestrians and that try hard at the lights too….

Again more detail will be covered in a future issue of ‘the guide’.

FUEL SYSTEMS

Lastly this brings us to the life blood if every engine, FUEL. The standard AE86 fuel pump be it a 4A-C pump or 4A-GE pump is not going to cut it with a turbo engine. All is not lost however, they can be utilised in the factory location to supply fuel to your N/A or TURBO engine via a surge tank system.

Using the factory fuel pump as a ‘lift pump’ to bring the fuel into a surge tank, a custom fuel system can be built around a main high-flow fuel pump, such as one manufactured by Bosch or Walboro to do the rest of the hard work of feeding your new and very thirsty 4A-GTE baby.

Surge tanks genreally need to be at least 2 liters in volume to keep the fuel supply to front of the car without drying up. The surge tank can be mounted inside the car or underneath the car or completely within the main tank. Being mounted inside the car they should be mounted in the boot area with an electrical cut off switch should you ever have a serious incident. Surge tanks also need to be contained within a sealed box as well to prevent leakage. The down side to mouning it inside the car is the constant fuel smell…

Mounting the surge tank underneath the car you wont get the fuel smell, but underbody space is at a premium on the AE86 and can be difficult to find space to mount a suitibly sized tank. Also mounting underneath the car you will need to protect everything from the elements.

NOW GET TO IT!

So there you have it! All you need to know about turbo setups for the AE86. While initially it maybe a larger cash out lay to do the conversion properly, there are numerous advantages expecially if your drifting your hachi, and the power to weight is amazing!

See you next time for crazy engine conversions!

Info : Fake Rasul.

From Isu Hangat:

Seorang pengamal ajaran sesat yang paling dikehendaki oleh JAIS yang masih belum dapat ditangkap semakin bermaharajalela di internet. Kahar Ahmad yang gila mengaku dirinya Rasul Melayu kini memblog pula.

Dia update blognya setiap hari. Jadi sebagai umat Islam yang membenci ajaran sesat ni, mari kita 'flag' blog dia ni supaya google boleh menerima aduan agar blog dan user ini diblock.

Cara nak flag blog:



Tanda di ruangan hate and violence pun ok dan ikut arahan selanjutnya sehingga submit.



Mari berjihad di alam cyber!!! Jom Flag blog ni: http://messengerofgodtoday.blogspot.com/

Info : Olskool.org Cup.

There will be an old school car race that will be held on 3rd of October at MIMC. It will be hosted by Olskool.org community. That's the reason I want my Bee to be ready before the race. Well, Jaguh and I will be entering IF our car is done by that time.

Updates can be found here:
http://olskool.org/forum/index.php?topic=4974.0

Anyway, Im still in doubt whether the race will happen or not. I hope they will make it and not just talking cock. Lol. Sigh, I really shouldn't promote Olskool.org since the forum is kinda racist on car brand. All must use Toyota to get their attention (Or should I say spam?) and their favourite model are KE30, KP61 and KE70. Geez. Others? Rarely get any reply on the threads.

Oh, and if you are using Datsun, might go to KKL. That is Datsun forum if you call me.

Retro Syndicate? Well, most of them are from Ipoh. But, so far they are still welcoming us, a non-famous car brand user. Among these three forum, I rather stick to RS coz they have a lot of information, and less spamming, while KKL with their 'Datsun Rules' but yet, I never see any of them involve in any track day, or even other type or race. How do they define touge and wangan eh? Coz they love using those two words when talking. And finally, OS with their Apam, spamming, and more spamming.

Ahh, I just released my inner heart thought. Anyway, I wanna take my Sahur already. Happy fasting and please dont skip your puasa. Please be ashame of yourself if you are skipping it.

Info : Bee's Background.

Just a few infos from the internet. Need to do some research coz Bee's engine is not 1.3, its 1.4. So more questions were popped. What is the engine code? From what car? So, first I checked the grant and found out the engine code is UC.

From what I found on the Wikipedia:

The 1973 Familia Preso featured a 1272 cc engine. It was sold as the Mazda 808 in some export markets such as New Zealand and Australia and Asia Pacific markets and Mazda 818 in many others (presumably due to the usage of numbers with a middle zero by Peugeot for its automotive models). In Japan this model is also known as the Mazda Grand Familia and its top line model is a 2 door coupé with twin round headlamp and a rotary powered engine known as the RX-3.

This generation was available in coupé, sedan, and station wagon forms. Engines were inline 4 cylinders and included a 1272 cc, a 1490 cc, and a 1586 cc option.

Engines:

• 1973-1976 - 987 cc I4, 50 hp (37 kW)/56 ft·lbf (77 N·m)
• 1970-1973 - 1.3 L (1272 cc) TC I4, 2 barrel, 69 hp (51 kW)/67 ft·lbf (92 N·m)
• 1973-1976 - 1.6 L (1586 cc) I4, 80 hp (60 kW)/91 ft·lbf (124 N·m)

Malaysian version of 808 should be running on a 1.3L engine with the TC engine code. Unless yours is a Mazda RX3, then it will be a rotary 12A inside.

And from Wikipedia, it is known that the UC series are:

• 1.4 L (1416 cc, 86 cu in) (77x76 mm) - A larger-bored version of the TC, used in the 1978-1980 Mazda GLC. Produced 70 hp (52 kW). Was also used in the E1400 Bongo van and the 1984-87 Ford Econovan. Has been mistakenly called a D4 engine in some documentations and parts catalogues.

So, problem solved! The previous owner had swapped the original engine with a Ford Econovan/ Mazda Bongo's engine. I hope most of the spare part shop still have the overhaul set for the engine. Should I overhaul now or wait first? Hehehehe. I love my money. Kekekeke.

Info : Bukit Jalil Drift Session on 26.4.09.

Date: 26 April 2009 (Sunday)
Time: 10am - 5pm
Venue: Car Park A, Stadium Bukit Jalil
Supported by:
Drift Session by Feinto-D
Drift Lesson by Sync Optima Drift Academy
Gerakan Belia 4B
Kementerian Belia & Sukan

Drift Session:
Entry Fee RM 30 per drifter
Helmets, Shoes and Long Pants are compulsory
Seatbelts must be worn at all times, drivers will be banned if found passenger unbelted

For registration for drift session, please call Loyai 0193070808.




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Drift Lesson for Beginner:
Entry Fee RM 180.00/person with own drift car.
Chief Instructor: Ariff Johanis Ahmad
All drivers must have valid driver license, older than 18 years old.
All vehicles must have valid insurance coverage.
Rubber shoes, sneakers and/or driving shoes.
Optional: racing helmet, racing gloves, racing shoes
Basic Drift Setup Car is also available for rental. Please call to book.
There’s a limited number (20 max) of open spots, so please register early.

For registration for drift lesson, please call Jane 012 4870487.

cut & paste from drift.com.my and yes, I'll be there with Din's KE70 again.

Info : How to befriend two hamsters.

Hamsters can't befriend if they don't have the same smell at each other. So, here's how to befriend them.

A bucket with small volume of water + hamster cream bath (lol). Just enough so that they didnt drown. Dont forget to put your hand just in case they drown and dont let their nose in the water.

Then, put them in another empty bucket and let it in there for a few minutes. They do looks funny now. Very small when wet.

Both were shivering at this time. Very cute but kinda pity to them. Haha.

When both had calmed, dry them with soft towel and if you have a hair dryer, set it to the lowest speed and dry them both. Bulat & Bujur; love at first sight yo~

Mating time! Opps, I mean dating time. LOL.

Happy trying! Pictures were taken from Mok's blog.

Info : Sorting out my blog.

From now, I'll be posting with a label on the header so that it will be easier to scroll , search from my title list.

Label such as; Info, Photography, DIY, Mazda, and more will come as time go through.

Happy Reading!

Should I do a 'Random Snap' like Nori Yaro or should I stick to my own blogging style?

Handphone Info!

Would you like to know if your handphone is original or not ?

Press the following on your mobile *#06# and the-international mobile equipment identity number appears. Then check the 7th and 8th numbers.

IF the Seventh & Eighth digits are 02 or 20 this means your cell phone was assembled in China which is low quality

IF the Seventh & Eighth digits are 08 or 80 this means your cell phone was manufactured in Germany which is fair quality

IF the Seventh & Eighth digits are 01 or 10 this means your cell phone was manufactured in Finland which is very Good

IF the Seventh & Eighth digits are 00 this means your cell phone was manufactured in original factory which is the best Mobile Quality

IF the Seventh & Eighth digits are 13 this means your cell phone was assembled in Azerbaijan which is very Bad quality and also dangerous for your health


Got it at isuhangat.

As for me? My handphone is 01 which is from Finland. Buy original, be original ;)